Berlin in Spring

East Side Gallery

East Side Gallery

I’ve been to Berlin a few times over the past few years, and have left each time incredibly hung over and happy as hell. As in my normal life, I experience a wide range of emotions mixed with enlightenment and self-realization, however when I go to

Delicious trout and Miss Maria

Delicious trout and Miss Maria

Berlin it happens within a matter of days instead of years. Perhaps this is why I have a special place in my heart for the vibrant German city that offers proper European

Cem and Maria, tour guides and drinking buddies

Cem and Maria, tour guides and drinking buddies

hospitality. Yes, European hospitality seems like an oxymoron, especially coming from my

Bikes in the Park

Bikes in the Park

life in Turkey, but somehow the city and the people contained within shine like polished gems. And I fucking love them.

My dear friend Maria, who I met in Istanbul a few years ago, was the perfect hostess and tour guide. She made sure we tasted every beer possible, ate all the tasty German morsels, and explored as far and wide as possible. Drinking beer on a rooftop community garden,  Klunkerkeranich, overlooking the city was fucking awesome. Riding bikes around all major historical and government buildings, through parks, and

Art for babies

Art for babies

along the Spree was fucking great. Listening to Hip Hop heads make beats at Cafe Wendel, wandering through Bethanian, an old church converted into art studios, and eating California pulled pork during street food Thursday at Markthalle 9 were, well, fucking brilliant. Let me not forget the May Day festival in Kreuzberg, which was a mass of humanity from all walks of life enjoying live music and life in general.

Cafe Wendel

Cafe Wendel

We heard metal, Hip Hop, and traditional Turkish music all within a 3-block radius, with colorful people dancing tirelessly and imbibing freely.


May Day

I had the honor of being a “model” for my friend Alesh’s sketch class. While it wasn’t the dreamy, romantic notion of sitting nude, draped in velvet fabric, in front of passionate artsy types, I enjoyed sitting on the pavement, drinking beer and chatting with a

Sketch class with Alesh

Sketch class with Alesh

lovely lady from Hamburg, all the while being sketched.

As I had usually visited Berlin for music festivals and short

Neus Museum

Neus Museum

stopovers, I wasn’t able to absorb the rich history of conflict that is an integral part of the city’s past. Maria is a wealth of knowledge about the GDR, Nazi regime, and the cultural implications both entities instilled into modern

Maria waiting for Korean sustenance

Maria waiting for Korean sustenance

Germany. What amazed me most was how far the German people have come in reversing the damage that was done and how progressive they continue to be. Especially when I compare to police brutality in the United States that hasn’t ceased to exist.

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Cem and I visited Sachsenhausen Memorial and Museum, aka concentration camp, a short journey outside of the city. The small town of Oranienburg is very sweet, with colorful houses, children on bicycles and white picket fences. As we reached the camp, the experience became very surreal as the smell of death permeated my nostrils.

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

Sachsenhausen Concentration Camp

While I still have images in my memory from the atrocities displayed in the Holocaust Museum in Houston that I visited nearly 20 years ago, walking on the earth was a completely different sensation. This camp was a “home” for mostly Senti and

Hair and eye color samples to determine race- Sachsenhausen Camp

Hair and eye color samples to determine race- Sachsenhausen Camp

Roma, or gypsies, who are people I deeply respect for their cultural contributions to civilization. Walking around the land, imagining thousands of people forced into a slow demise, was sickening, yet humbling somehow. The categorization of people according to their eye and hair color made me nauseous, but also pushed me to have a better understanding of humanity, both good and evil Hatred for people based on ignorant perceptions is a concept I will never fathom.


The Victory Column

The moral of my story? Drink beer. Appreciate art. Listen to good music. Respect people regardless of their skin color, gender, or education level. Then all will be well. Peace.



Maria and Mathias


History Repeated Itself last February

Jumping for Joy

Jumping for Joy

During my formative, albeit rebellious years, aka high school, I fell in love with musicians and photography. I spent countless weekends at local clubs in downtown Houston snapping photos of friends playing in Metal and Hip Hop/Metal fusion bands before they were cool. My best friend and the most influential person in my life during those few years was the multi-talented and incredibly self-confident Geoffrey. He taught me bravery, self-love and that musicians are badass. There was a particular night I “stole” my parents ’86 Chevy Suburban, much too large for my petite self, to see Geoffrey’s band play at Fitzgerald’s, in the once decrepit part of the city. It most certainly must have been his overflowing courage that inspired me to drive the ’86 Suburban that night, fearlessly, like a proper dumbass teenage girl should.



Fast-forward 19 years. As important life events are always put on social media, I learned that Geoffrey was on a European tour with the sultry Jolie Holland. I searched for flights to Spain and France attempting to find the most logical city to meet my high school sweetheart. Logic aside, Valencia turned out to be the right decision. Unfortunately, there was a massive snowstorm in Istanbul the day I was supposed to fly, so I was grounded in frustration at missing an extra day with my virtuoso classmate.AHH_7936

I headed to the airport the next icy morning, in hopes my flights would be on time and get me to the beautiful Spanish land I had always dreamed of putting my feet upon. On my layover in Ataturk airport, I strolled through the throngs of people from all over the world, (literally people wearing everything from dashikis to stilettos) with a skip in my step incited by excitement of this reunion. It had actually only been 11 years since I last saw Geoffrey in NYC, when we had the privilege of seeing the Beastie Boys play Madison Square Garden, but still. My heart fluttered a bit as I went through the 3rd security check, with everyone around me speaking Spanish. Fuck yeah. Let the adventures begin!


Geoff eats patatas bravas


Naturally, I inhaled a few mini bottles of imported red wine on the short 3-hour flight, as I was unable to sleep due to the flood of memories from three lifetimes ago. It had been a long time since I felt like a giddy little girl.


Breathing deep once outside the airport in Valencia, I headed to the hotel where I found Geoffrey, sitting on a sofa, in all his Texan glory. It turns out people don’t really change much with age, aside from the occasional wrinkle. He still has the death grip embrace that blesses those lucky enough to experience it. After a quick refresher thanks to the bidet (major swamp ass occurred from the lack of AC on the plane), we hit the city streets chattering away as if we hadn’t missed a day.


Geoff took me on a tour through the architectural history he had learned in his explorations the day before. We drank delicious wine, climbed castle stairs, and noshed on cured pork and patatas bravas. We spoke incessantly of our pasts, relative presents and new found love for Valencia. It’s a city we could live in, based solely on our minimal hours of experience here. Duly noted in my infinite book of future plans. Part New Orleans, part El Paso and part Game of Thrones, Geoff and I conceded that this Spanish city wasn’t so unfamiliar, yet was different enough to incite a sense of vigor.




In the early evening, we were off to sound check at Loco Club, where I met the headmistress Jolie, and band members Breezus, Whoopi, and tour manager Thorsten from Germany. They’re unique characters that produce a band of sedating and lovely players. Speaking with Jolie, much like conversing with Geoffrey, was enlightening, inspiring and motivating. My love and appreciation for musical artists is a constantly burning fire, and these endearing people tossed on logs and spewed lighter fluid.


Jolie and Whoopi

Jolie appears as the child of Janis Joplin and Leadbelly, who was raised by the nanny Skye Edwards (of Morcheeba). Intoxicating vocals mixed with calculated, yet captivating, guitar picking demand attention on Jolie, despite her distaste for the spotlight. Members of the audience tapped their toes and bounced their heads in the dimly lit dive bar. I felt as though I was in high school again, admiring musicians with guts enough to stand under stage lights while entertaining mesmerized onlookers. The music was a perfect mix of heart warming melancholic melodies and bluegrass enthusiasm that provided the spiritual refreshment utterly necessary for my personal growth.




I joined these beautiful people again the next morning, and watched them eat breakfast as I had inhaled mine earlier at my hotel before racing over to theirs, in fear they would hit the road before I could spend a few more moments with a group of American souls I’ve been missing. (I won’t mention the alcohol had yet to wear off in the three or so hours of sleep that somehow happened so logic didn’t exist yet). Turns out they were still sleeping when I arrived, so my

Whoopi and Jolie

Whoopi and Jolie

indigestion was unnecessary. Ah, we live and we learn.

My final dose of Geoffrey’s utter positivity and smile brighter than the sun prepared me for a day of wandering the streets of Valencia solo, as the band was headed to the North. It was a short, but extremely sweet reunion with the delicate man that remains as my first hero. Death grip embrace number two accomplished, I was ready to take on the world, or at least Valencia city center. We have to start somewhere right?




Geoffrey at Loco Club

Walking shoes ready (or so I thought), I explored the architectural wonders of the City of Arts and Sciences. I strolled through a massive kilometer long park full of palm trees, people promenading their spoiled dogs, and children running amuck chattering in their sweet Spanish. To my astonishment, I realized no one was interested in talking to me, and if I knocked elbows or bumped into someone, all parties apologized swiftly. Not like Turkey, where every body wants to ask me where I’m from and overgrown women intentionally “brush” shoulders then scowl at me as if I had run head on into them. It’s quite amazing how a slight bit of decency can change the atmosphere of a city and ultimately, an entire culture. I had almost forgotten what personal space, minding your own business, and respect meant.

Breezus and Whoopi

Breezus and Whoopi

Once my feet were blistered and my mouth parched, I made my way to Mercado de Colon, where Geoff and I made our first pit stop the day before. I sat on a cushiony wicker sofa, kicked up my feet, and ordered red wine. Oh hell yes! Drinking wine on a sunny Sunday afternoon. Yes please. The veggie paella was filling enough to get my shopping legs ready to continue wandering about, with a different focus from history, architecture, and culture. It

was time to find some cool Spanish boots.


City of Arts and Sciences

City of Arts and Sciences

Unfortunately, I didn’t find boots, but did manage to understand that “siesta” really means “We will look at you inside the store, but we’re not fucking working.” So I found my way back to the hotel wherein I, yes, drank more wine and ate more cured pork and cheese. This was heaven I tell you.AHH_7899


The following morning, I somehow jumped out of bed, inhaled the buffet breakfast, and walked briskly to the marina so I could see, smell and breathe in the Balearic Sea (or a cove AHH_7892 copywithin said sea). My spirit and heart were rejuvenated, yet again, this time from seeing nearly everyone on the street walking their pups early on a Sunday morning, some purebreds, some mutts, some big, some small, but all jubilant with wagging tails. I must take a moment to give respect and blessings to people who love and take care of animals.

I made my way back to the hotel with only a few minutes to spare (thank you again my bidet friend) to get my shit and go to the airport. The wind was blowing furiously, and I secretly hoped my flight would be canceled, or at least delayed. Of course it wasn’t, but a girl can wish! As I reveled in my concluding mini bottle of non-imported Spanish wine, I reflected through three decades of existence. It seems the winds of change are a blowin’…AHH_7988

All Sides Continue the Fight



When i asked Z. what she wanted from the current nationwide protests in Turkey, she said “Freedom.” Corporate wallflower by day, musician by night, Z. claims despite being a literature major, she has read more this past week than during university. She would attend the protests, but went home when the scenes on the street were of a typical street festival. Then the police started attacking and she would read instead of sleep, thinking about the injured people on the streets. Though she is disappointed that the protests have become more like social gatherings than a revolt, as a few others share the same idea, she attends nearly every night to show solidarity with her people.

AHH_4744 copy

A few of the women I have spoken to, have all agreed they feel liberated and safe during this time of unrest. Safe against their fellow protestors, however not the police. As stories surface of people being beaten and/or arrested, the peaceful demonstrators have lost their faith in the protection of the police even more than normal. However, the climate of the anti-government protests is creating a kind of utopia that is a surprise for Turkish nationals and foreigners (me) alike. People who didn’t usually help each other, are reaching out to pick a fallen comrade off the street, say “pardon” if they bump into someone, or help people find lost friends after a tear gas attack. As women, they are using their voices to show aversion for a government that is restricting their rights.


As of today, the Prime Minister continues with his message of impudence and disregard for the protestors, police and water cannon reinforcements have come to Istanbul and Ankara from other cities in Turkey, the death toll has risen to 5, the number injured and arrested is in the 1,000s, and the people continue to take to the streets every night in a show of defiance against an authoritarian government.

We don’t see an end, or resolution in sight.  There is, however, an abundance of harmony and humor.


Ayten and Özge ready for tear gas

Back to the North….

Last week proved to be another eventful adventure….

Burney MC and Friend

Burney MC and I caught the Post bus to Gulu in northern Uganda to attempt to establish End of the Weak in the north.  After the 6 hour bus ride we arrived safely and covered in a fine layer of red dust. The highlight was having grilled bananas, called gonja, so I was satisfied.

Having been to Gulu before, we walked the familiar streets to find the guest house Happy Nest, where we would rest our bones for the few days we were there.  We met with Juma, a radio presenter and local promoter to discuss running the MC Challenge in Gulu.  As it would be, all he really wanted was money as the amount of NGOs and misappropriated money has spoiled the people in this war fatigued area.  We attended a talent show, which consisted of young men and one woman miming over a well-known artist’s song.  Most of it was Hip Hop from the US such as 50 Cent or local celebrity Bebe Cool.  Although Burney and I laughed about it, it is quite disheartening to see these kids imitating Western music instead of creating their own. However, these talent shows seem to take place in so many cities and towns, that this is the entertainment of the times.

I met a producer named Babu who has become my main guide and go-to guy for information about the Hip Hop scene in the North.  He is a man of few words who barely cracks a smile, but he has been honest and helpful.  His partner and co-producer, Ash Bee, has also proven to be of infinite help and is the comic relief in my endeavors to provide a platform to help strengthen and educate hopeful artists in Acholiland.

Burney and I retired to the guest house late that night, discussing the struggles we faced with working in Gulu.

MCs in Gulu

The next morning, we enjoyed our breakfast of buttered bread and coffee, then set off to Babu’s studio for more discussion.  We met Ken, brother to Babu and a jack of many trades. He took us to a T-shirt printing shop where I proceeded to have End of the Weak Uganda shirts printed. Then off we went to meet with local boxing coach and mentor to Stacy, Kidega.  He gave us useful information on how to work in Gulu and with his brother Komacech, helped us gather rappers to introduce the idea of the MC Challenge.  After a brief nap, we returned to Alobo, which is a bar, restaurant and community center.  We met with a few MCs before the electricity went out and more came to speak with us in the darkness of the restaurant. When the power returned, Burney played DJ and the MCs spit their freestyles, most of them in English, which showed us again how imitation of Western artists is their main education.  It was great to meet the guys and see their talents and eagerness for some kind of recognition.

We had more meetings at a discotheque called Herm before going across town with another new friend, Adi from London. Adi is a filmmaker working with Al-Jazeera (largest Arab TV station) on a documentary of people involved in the 20 year conflict with Sudan. He had some interesting stories as the people he had met had experiences common to a war zone.  Talking to people about where they were and what they were doing during the conflict reminded me of my time spent in post-conflict Croatia in Eastern Europe.  There are many people who carry many signs of war, mostly large scars of violence inflicted on them.  After a few more Nile beers, we retired home yet again.

Friday was spent having meetings with radio personality Emma of Choice FM and manager of Herm’s where I intend to have the End of the Weak event.  I battled with them as they wanted too much money, but I think with the proper use of ‘fuck’ in some of the conversation they realized I wasn’t an easy force to battle, like many other dishonest whites in the area. However, they are getting more money than they should as my bargaining skills are developing with every meeting. It was a frustrating day, but we finished it off with spending a comical time with Babu, Ash Bee and friends. After too much booze for Burney, Stacy and I, we slept a few winks before rising for the next day….

Burney headed back to Kampala and Stacy and I headed to Kitgum, farther North.  We arrived in Kitgum, somehow, after the bus broke

Santana and I

down for what seemed like forever.  In a place without AAA, Stacy and I wondered how exactly we would get to our destination if the bus crew had not managed to get it started again.  As soon as we hit Kitgum, we went straight for a lunch of pork at a friends restaurant.  It is nice to be welcomed back with big smiles and warm beer.

It was a big night for Stacy and I, as our friend Hoppy Benny organized a Hip Hop show at Club Galaxy.  Benny’s friend and promoter, Santana, took Stacy on his motorbike and Benny taking me on his motorcycle, we headed to a radio station to promote the night’s event.  The radio show was in the local language Luo, but Stacy and I spoke about our projects in our best English. Although many people in the city of Kampala consider the North to be traditional and uncivilized, the Acholis speak better English than the Bugandas (people in the central where I stay).  After a short but entertaining set on the radio, we went to Santana’s station, which was in a large house and though the equipment is old, it gets the job done. After yet another entertaining 10 minute show, we went back to our local haunt for dinner, of, yes, more pork.

Off to Club Glaxay we went, where we found many young men and women ready for a talent show and Hip Hop event.  We stood outside talking before being escorted in to a large club full of people sitting watching TV. We went back to the VIP room where Stacy and I had a beer and talked about solving world issues while the people watched a soccer game. Once the show started, we went to the main room and sat in the very front row as we were the guests of honor.  Benny and Santana wanted us to speak, but we denied wholeheartedly as being on the microphone is not what we came to do. The  talent show consisted of more miming to Western music and some really great traditional dancers.

I discovered we were true VIPs when I had to pee and had a bodyguard escort me to the back.  He moved people out of the way as if I was Obama and no one could touch me.  I didn’t like the treatment as I don’t want to be singled out, but I imagine I would never have moved forward as many people are interested in talking to a muzungu.

Ice Dream and Chainy Crispy

Benny organized a mini MC Challenge so that someone from Kitgum could go to Gulu to represent a major town in the North.  Organizing this event has proven to be difficult in many ways, and trying to have musicians from many areas represent their local language has been my focus for the past week and will continue for the next weeks.  I was impressed with Benny getting the people together and I am so incredibly thankful to have him on my side.  After the Challenge ended, we were escorted to the back where Stacy and I became surrounded by MCs wanting to talk and see what we thought of their performances.  After many discussions with people we met before mixed with new faces, we were escorted out the back door as though we were JayZ and Beyonce.

After a few hours of sleep, we were up and ready to receive musicians from the previous night to discuss End of the Weak and Hip Hop in general.  Although people were slow to come, their was a great turnout.  Benny is establishing the Northern Uganda Hip Hop Culture to help stimulate and expose the artistic abilities in the North and so we spoke about what Hip Hop means and how it can help guide them.  It  seemed to be a productive meeting, under a tree in what little shade there was, and I hope the meeting will help strengthen the ideas and hopes of these guys.

Stacy remained in Kitgum to run a theatre workshop and I jumped on the Gulu Express bus to finish up my duties in Gulu. I had been told about edible rats in the North, and got to experience it first hand on the ride to Gulu.  They only come around in the dry season and so are treated as a delicacy.  At a roadside market, the biggest selling item was this big ass rodent that had been sliced in half and dried for sale.  With many people buying these supposedly delicious creatures, the bus had a scent of dead animal that would fill the bus whenever it stopped and the air became stagnant. I asked Ash Bee about this source of food and he became very excited in describing how they prepare it.  Unfortunately, or fortunately, I wasn’t able to partake in rat soup.

1st meeting of Northern Uganda Hip Hop Culture

I received a copy of the Sunday Vision, an country wide newspaper that had a Q+A with me.  I was pleasantly surprised to see it and was quite happy with the response from people.  If someone calls me a celebrity one more time though, I’m going to have to look into buying a car as celebrities don’t walk. Ha!

After a mellow night with Ash Bee and a brief encounter with Babu, I slept a few hours before catching the 7AM bus back to Kampala.

the road to Sudan

6 hours and a headache later, I arrived in Kampala where my bodaboda friend picked me up and took my dusty body and backpack home.  My bodaboda friend, Mayaja, being much in love with me, brought me a bouquet of roses and lilies and a chocolate bar for Valentine’s Day. It’s nice to know where ever I may go in the world, there’s someone who loves me.

A day of not much rest, and I had to get the End of the Weak auditions organized for yesterday, Tuesday the 16th……..

Having the day start with monsoon rain and then having people show up late to the venue Club Rouge put a damper on my spirits, but the auditions turned out to be a success.  Although there where minor glitches in getting started, the emcees did their best to display their skills to judges Tafash, a female MC from Kenya, and Sylvester, an MC from Uganda. After a few exhausting hours, Burney and I had accomplished what we came to do.

EOW Auditions

We finished up the night with Spoken Truth, a weekly event for poets and musicians to talk about whatever and then back to Makindye for a night of restless sleep.

Now I will eat my first meal of the day (it’s almost 5PM) then meet with a few End of the Weak partners and champions, who (some) will make their debut on Jam Agenda, a local show promoting music.

Another day down and more hurdles to jump but success remains attainable.

A shitty week….

7 Feb 2010

I started off the week by watching Stacy attempt her first community meal at the Bavubuka House.  She had intentions that everyone who wanted to eat would contribute  200 shillings (about 10 US cents).  So off to the market she goes and upon her return, she was smacked with the reality that the people didn’t understand or just didn’t care.  3 individuals made the meal, but other than that, there was no contribution.  It is unfortunate that in a so-called community house there is no real community.  The mindset isn’t there for the locals to help each other out, they prefer handouts. The only person who has not expected a handout from me is Burney, the emcee who is my partner with End of the Weak.  I’m not sure why he is different, but he is. He understands the value of working to achieve something.  The others just want things given to them.  So my frustration with the kids/adults at the Bavubuka House has been elevated this week, but I learned last year to not give too much of my resources.  Unfortunately, Stacy learned the hard way, as did I, that the most locals don’t understand the meaning of ‘contribution’ or ‘community.’

SP at “Miami Beach”

The funniest day of my life also occurred this week when I went with a friend and MC, SP Omungunjule to his home in the ghettos of Makindye and Katwe.  As Burney, SP and I started our journey in Makindye, we encountered 2 military police who were exiting the ghetto and headed back to the barracks across the street.  They were kind and quite funny, as they just wanted to make friends with a muzungu (white person).  After a few minutes of small talk, we continued our journey through trash filled streets and rows of concrete houses.  SP, being a comedian, jumped a rancid ‘creek’ of water and climbed atop a trash pile.  I jokingly asked if the stream of trash and human waste

ghetto girl

was Lake Victoria, SP responds with, “This is Miami Beach.”  As he continues walking through trash piles, he decides to climb into a ‘shed’, which was a few pieces of sheet metal and wooden boards thrown together, and do a freestyle. Not 1 minute into his speech, he slides backwards into the ‘trash’ pile, his face covered in horror for maybe 7 seconds.  When he realizes where he is, he screams, “Fuck off man! This is a toilet!” As he emerges with one side of his body covered in shit, I laugh so hard I cry.  Burney watches in disgust as his

SP in shit

brother attempts to scrape the human waste off of his pants with a piece of metal.  After a few minutes of hysterical laughter (and me making a video of the whole scene) a man passes by and tells us to follow him to a water spout.  SP washes the shit off him as a crowd of women and children stand and watch. I photographed the kids after my friend was clean as could be, then off we went for more ghetto adventures.  We walked through areas where I usually pass on a boda boda, except for an unfamiliar market area with clean streets.  Clean streets are a rare sight here, as trash bins don’t exist.  As it would be, the market area is for the government, and so it made (some) sense that it is the only clean street surrounded by ghetto.  Then the rain came.  The three of us stood under what shelter we could find, and when the drops slowed down enough we continued walking back to the house.  I’ve since watched the video every day, multiple times, and when any of us that have seen it even speak about it, laughter rises to levels that cause pain.
And so the week continued, with meetings to get sponsorship and advertisement for the next End of the Weak MC Challenge.  I organized the auditions for last night, Saturday the 6th of Feb,

making chapatti in Makindye

at Club Sway, a former hotspot but now dead spot. It began as a positive event, but about halfway through, a manager pulled the DJ out of the booth and cut the microphone.  Apparently, the woman I made the arrangements with either did not relay the event to her manager, or didn’t have the power to give me the space for the time she said.  Or they wanted money or they didn’t like Hip Hop.  Regardless what it was, they kicked us out.  So 30 emcees and about 15 onlookers poured out on the street and watched me curse and talk shit until I calmed down.  The 2 judges that were there, Tafash and Sylvester, said it’s no big deal, welcome to Africa.  And so I  brought my anger down a level and went home to drink.  My friend and housemate who has been in pain for a week, went to the clinic and discovered he has worms. And so we talked about parasites, eating meat, and well, shit.  We compared parasite stories and had some good laughs.
So now I sit here, cold, watching from atop a hill, the rain fall on Kampala, turning the dust to mud and pushing the waste of all kinds through the ditches.  I am still frustrated about last night, as it was a waste of money for many people involved. But, I will book another venue this week and continue on with my plans. As Nelson Mandela said, “The greatest glory in living lies not in never falling, but in rising every time we fall.”
And so I will fight like hell to continue establishing End of the Weak Uganda, a movement of improvement through Hip Hop.

The dry season….

As I sit at Speke Hotel, watching a stork feed her baby in the tree, I am sweating in my mini skirt.  This is what they call the dry season.  Relentless sunshine, a warm breeze and enough dust in the air that I think I am in the Nevada desert during the Burning Man Festival.

Mugagga, Stacy + I

When darkness sets in, the view from the back of a boda boda is one of headlights, bicycles and speed bumps all slightly diffused by the encompassing red Kampala dust.  Sometimes I feel as though I am in a dream state, until the boda swerves to miss a pothole and I am jarred back into the present.
This week was slightly uneventful compared to some although it was productive. I had a meeting with WBS TV and they are willing to put MC Challenge winner CYNO MC and Uncle 33 Bwongo on a show called Jam Agenda this Wednesday.  When I saw CYNO the other day, (as he checks in with my progress) I asked him if he is ready to be on TV.  His response was, “I am an MC. I am forever ready.” And with the crack of his smile and my laughter, we continued on with our duties.
Stacy started a mural project on the property in Makindye (ma-chin-day) that employed the skills of Mugagga and Zubie.  Zubie is a girl that lives next door and sister to the only female MC in the house, Fasie.  Mugagga painted a massive lion

painting by floodlight

head with an outline of Africa, and Zubie painted a beautiful African queen, or as she likes to say, a phenomenal woman.  It was fun to watch the progress through the week and now that it is nearly completed, it is fun to watch the sense of accomplishment of the mural team’s spirit.  It has become a nice and semi-relaxing place to chill at the end of the day to watch the stars and occasional bat fly by.
I met two more very cool and inspiring people in the Hip Hop industry, female MC

The Bavubuka Mural Project

Saints CA and manager to superstar GNL Zamba, Emrun.  They gave great insight in to the various characters in the small scene here and applauded me for the work I am doing with End of the Weak.  Getting more positive people on board will for sure help the project to grow bigger and better.
On friday, a few people from the house went to see Kwesa’s dying father in the hospital. Kwesa is a young MC who is quite stubborn, but is losing his father at a very early age and so I try to nurture as much as possible.  A few weeks into my stay in Kampala, he asked if I would be his mom.  I’m pretty sure its so I’ll give him ice cream and take him to America, but it is endearing to have some one greet me as mommy without my having to go through pain and cleaning up after a shitting,

Kwesa and friends

vomiting baby.  The hospital reminded me of my time spent in a hospital in Croatia, with old equipment, urine soaked blankets and well, sick people.  But I know we made the old man’s day by showing him his son has a good support system.
After a meal of an omelette and salad, it is now time for half price ice cream.  That is the highlight of Sundays here in Kampala city.  Two scoops of delicious ice cream for $1.50.
It has been a lazy Sunday, and I look forward to a busy and productive week ahead…..

And that is what they call the village….

Last Tuesday, Burney MC and I woke up at 6:30 AM, jumped on a boda boda to town, and boarded a bus North to Gulu. Gulu is infamous for being the district where many children were abducted to be child soldiers for the Lord’s Resistance Army and 90% of the people have been displaced.  I urge you to research the war in Sudan, but in short, it’s Christians verses Muslims, the government versus the rebels. Joseph Kony, the leader of the LRA, is from northern Uganda and so kidnapped his people, the Acholis, to fight for his cause. As I’ve said in an earlier blog, there has been peace there for over a year, and my main informant about the area’s life is Benson Mwaka aka Hoppy

Hoppy Benny and Burney in Kitgum

Benny. His family is in Kitgum, which borders southern Sudan.
The bus was relatively empty, enough that Burney and I were able to lay down and get some rest. Having spent much of my childhood on the road, moving from state to state, my father had my sister and I well trained on finding the source of any slight disturbance or rattle in the vehicle or in the cargo we carried. Unfortunately, this keen sense of listening to a rattle can border on insanity when riding in a 10-15 year old bus with the window next to me unstable enough to believe it will fall out at any moment. I now have tuned my wheres-the-rattle-coming-from sense into this-is-part-of-the-background-noise sense.  As it turns out, life is full of music if you can only listen.  With a slight breeze blowing fine red dust into our faces, we watched small town after small town fly by.  There was a minor disturbance on the bus when an older man couldn’t pay the fair and couldn’t speak about where he was going, so a large, verbal woman who knew the man tried to talk to him.  After a few minutes of trying to converse with the man she says he must have been chloroformed or poisoned somehow and went back to her seat, the conductor going back to the front of the bus and we continued on. At a police check point, we stopped and the two conductors and bus driver came back to inquire into the man’s destination once again. Apparently, there were three women on the bus who knew him as they were all charcoal merchants so they were able to call his wife.  The police escorted the old man off the bus, and the three ladies were told to leave as well.  The conversation was a mix of Luganda and English, but I understood, “All the thieves must leave,” and so the bags of charcoal were unloaded from the bottom of the bus, the three ladies and feeble old man left on the side of the road to find another mode of transport.

on the bus

A highlight of the seven hour bus ride, or any bus ride in UG, is the side markets where we often stop for refreshments. Not leaving the bus, there are men, women and children running to the windows selling water, juice, meat on sticks, cassava, roasted bananas and chipatti (fried bread), this being the ultimate meaning of fast food.  After maybe three minutes of intense selling and buying, the bus rolls off to the next town.  There was a construction zone that consisted of one mile of speed bumps. Yes, one mile. As soon as the back wheels had cleared the first one, the front wheels were going over another one, and so on, and so on…..We laughed as we bounced out of our seats for what seemed like forever, being thankful when we were on level ground again.  We passed Karuma Falls, where the Nile river flows vigorously towards Egypt and baboons sit along the road watching the world go by.

Burney in Gulu

Arriving at the bus park in Gulu, tired and sweaty, we had a box of mango juice each, then boarded the next bus to continue on to Kitgum.  Burney and I were blessed again to have a bit of space in the back of the bus, however we refrained from laying down as the road was not paved and pot holes are the size of craters. Not to mention the driver takes turns at Mario Andretti speed so I felt as though we would tip over at almost any moment.  The scenery changed from cement and plywood buildings to mud huts with thatched roofs, which are Internally Displaced People camps. The IDP’s are the people who fled their villages to escape conflict and abduction.  Arriving in Kitgum two hours later, my friend Benny and his father

Parwech Alango village

were there on their motorcycles to give us a lift ‘home’.  The family stayed in government housing in Kitgum town when they left their village of Lumak in 2002.  It is a cement building with a sitting room, kitchen and two bedrooms.  Stacy (from Washington DC) had been there a few days already and welcomed us with open arms.  She thought she would enjoy working in the field, but after three days of shitting in a hole and washing her face from a bucket, she decided the field may not be for her. Ha. Of the two days I was there I did not bath my entire body, only my arms and legs, and well, if I was there one more day I would have been a redhead from all of the dust in my hair.  I tried to avoid looking in a mirror and when I did, my eyebrows were red like a clown and so I laughed and put the mirror away.  I really admire rural Africans as they always seem clean despite the lack of electricity and running water.

Acholi cousins

Our first night in Kitgum, we went for pork dinner (of course) and I was amazed at how quiet and peaceful the town seemed. Of course I was always looking for a rebel soldier to come from the bush with a large, American machine gun, but alas, they never came.  We retired early, Burney sleeping in two chairs, Benny on a sofa, and Stacy and I on two mattresses laid on the kitchen floor and covered with a mosquito net.  Despite Stacy screaming about a mouse running next to her and the dreams that seemed to take me on a journey, we rested well.
The next morning, Benny took me to meet his sister Sharon and her twins, Obama and Michelle.  While Sharon was very friendly, Obama and Michelle cried at the sight of a white person. Ha. We’ll see how well adjusted they become with time.
After getting pineapple at the town market, Stacy and Burney got on Benny’s motorcycle and I jumped on Geoffrey’s (step brother to Benny, his father having 2 wives), happy that I was on the faster one. However, Benny didn’t have eye protection and so Geoffrey and I remained behind the bike of three.  After 15 km down a dirt road, through fields of cassava and various other flora, including a sunflower patch, we arrived in the village of Parwech Alango in the mother camp of Kitgum Matidi with a not so thin layer of red dust on our white faces (Stacy and I anyway).  We were welcomed into the thatch roofed mud hut where various family members came in and out to greet us. We talked with the leader of an agricultural youth group that was started in 1998.  Once at 30 members, the group remains with 11 girls and 9 boys. This is quite a feat considering their livelihoods had been threatened by rebels and the surrounding war for many years.  They raise crops such as sorghum, cassava, maize, mangos, and various other crops, but the coolest commodity is bees.  They sell the honey, but want more training on what to do with the beeswax, such as making candles. So on my trip to the internet today, I am going to research how to make candles and when I return to the North, I will train to the best of my ability.  We had a tour of the bee boxes and surrounding crops, which has been a slight struggle to keep up since having their bulls stolen by the rebels.  After a brief discussion with the two leaders of the group in their office, under the mango tree, we jumped back on the motorcycles and off we went to see Benny and Geoffrey’s land.  Somewhere down another long, flat

on the road to the village

dirt road, we made our way through burning fields of bush.  Because of the dry season, the people burn the dead shrubbery to rejuvenate the soil and allow grazing for the cattle.  After a few kilometers of scorched earth, we came across a fire near the road. Stacy started screaming about the unpredictability of forest fires and Burney being a city boy and unsure of village danger, we stopped moving forward so Geoffrey could extinguish the flames with a few large, green leaves.  We jumped back on the bikes and headed onto the family land in the village of Lumak.  The Mwaka family left the land in 2002 and so the brick huts have been reduced to rubble.  Four of Benny’s brothers were abducted by rebels and two have returned. We met Peter, who was abducted while tending the ‘garden’ (fields).  He was marched into Sudan where he remained for roughly nine months.  Him and four other boys escaped one day, saying they were going to the fields and just started running.  He was open about speaking about his experience and it was acknowledged that former abductees have been accepted back into the community peacefully.

somewhere in Kitgum Matidi

On our return back to the family for dinner, the fire had nearly covered the road.  Benny in front, stopped and turned to Geoffrey asking if we could proceed, Geoffrey said no, but Burney just said go fast.   And so we flew through the fire, feeling the heat on our flesh and me being only slightly concerned about my hair igniting in flames.
After a dinner of posho (corn), sweet potatoes, greens, cabbage, peas, beans, and various other things, the mother and many other siblings, including two mentally disabled brothers, aunts and cousins, gathered around the hut as we asked questions and they asked questions, having Benny translate it all. I could tell he was exhausted by the time the conversation was done, but it also gave him an air of confidence and dignity to have brought these worlds together.  Benny’s mother gave the three of us names, Stacy is Abey, meaning beautiful. Burney is Otim, meaning a son born in a foreign village, and I am Amiro, meaning I want, or to meet, or to love…..I’m not real clear about it as every time I asked someone I got a different response. Ha.
We headed back to the town of Kitgum as there was a karaoke night that Burney and Hoppy were going to host at Club Shower.  As we flew down the long dirt road, the landscape was alive with burning fields.  Acholiland has been dubbed ‘the land of fire’ and for good reason.  Tired and dirty, we had a few beers and watched a UK soccer match, which was too much competition for karaoke.  We were thankful to be home and Burney began snoring shortly after arrival to confirm that joy.
The next morning we went to Holly Max studios, where Burney recorded a verse in Luganda, Benny a verse in Luo, and Stacy sang the chorus in well, English.  I got to speak with the emcees and producers involved with the studio and found that they just want to put Northern Hip Hop on the map.  After a few hours at the studio, we headed into town for one last pork meal then onto to the Gulu Express bus, which was packed like a New York subway car at rush hour and was by no means an express.  Two bumpy, dusty, and sweaty hours later, we arrived at the Gulu bus park once again.  Stacy’s friend Jimmy, who works with Concordia Universtiy in Canada, took us ‘home’, which is a nice house on a big property and surrounded by mud huts.  After a well deserved shower, we ate yet another feast.
The next day, we met with Remnant Voice, a Gulu based Hip Hop organization. After many questions about Northern Hip Hop, we walked into town to meet with Kidega, a professional boxer and coach.  Again, more research about sports and life in Gulu, then off to Mega FM radio station to meet with an organizer to help me get End of the Weak started in the North. There was a slight detour for some Nile Specials (beer) and then a productive meeting with Jummiah the promoter. He wanted to run the MC Challenge this weekend, but I’m too busy getting the next Challenge running in Kampala.  But, EOW Gulu will soon arrive.
We chilled at Jimmy’s house, watching movies on a flat screen TV and sipping yet more Nile. It was a good last night in the north of Uganda.

The Kitgum Crew

Up early to catch the Post bus back to Kampala, we thought we would have space to sleep, but the bus was so full even the aisles were taken by children sitting on luggage. The young man and two child siblings next to me had a chicken they were bringing to the city as a gift.  She stayed relatively quiet, only squawking when dropped or disturbed by the mile of speed bumps.  I had a difficult time staying awake, only keeping my eyes open long enough to buy food at the road side markets.
We arrived safely back to the land of thieves, aka Kampala. Ah, city life.
I could keep writing for days, but long story short, I find village life to be a struggle as much if not more than city life, but much more peaceful.  Guess it comes from my father never wanting to live in a neighborhood, and so growing up in the country has spoiled me.  The Acholi people are tall, dark and resilient as hell, much like the Zulus in South Africa, but when smiled at by a muzungu, they giggle and walk away shyly.
I look forward to returning to the North again very soon…..